Studio Nudo
Studio Nudo (first named Pouch) was a luxury hammocks brand based in Brooklyn that worked with artisans in El Salvador. During 2017-2018 I worked with them in different sourcing, development, production and marketing capacities.
Development:
Developed and tested several color recipes using responsibly sourced plants.
Sourcing:
I advised which recipes to keep considering color stability, availability, impact of their extraction from nature on the environment, price-point and story-telling. This combination of angles is needed on natural dyes, due to the fact that sometimes the same color can be obtained from the same plant.
Production:
I handled the dyeing process with the support of the Studio Nudo team.
For this specific project, we used the following plants: fustic, madder, Osage orange, avocado seeds. We also used ferrous sulfate (iron) for two of the color ways. This is type of salt used in dyeing processes, under appropriate safe guidelines for the production person (myself).
Each hammock was dyed by hand in a process that lasted over 1-week and used between 30-60 gallons of water per hammock (including pre-washing, dyeing and washing). We didn’t use alum or any mordant and developed instead recipes and processes that assured stable and long-standing color.
Marketing:
I advised them on how to best tell the story of the natural-dyeing process and the plants they utilized. A plant-oriented and transparent approach was utilized. Every color-way included the name of the plant that was used to make it, as well as a brief story of characteristics of the plant and its use as a dye. The same for the color-ways that included iron in the recipe.
Buffy
Buffy is a bedding brand based in New York City that produces its goods in China. During 2018-2019 I worked with them in different sourcing, development, production and marketing capacities. Some of my responsibilities included:
- Developed and tested over 300 recipes color recipes using different plants, plant combinations and salts
- Researched and interviewed dye houses and scientists experienced in natural dyes
- Worked in parallel with a scientist by developing recipes and exchanging results and findings
- Sourced plants and minerals from China, India and Japan to find options that would be geographically close to the brand’s production facilities. I supplemented my own research with recommendations with 3 students who were working at the time with me native to these countries, who could advise on names that don’t translate appropriately
- Advised company on best recipes considering color stability, availability, impact of their extraction from nature on the environment, price-point and story-telling. Advising against unstable plants like turmeric, for example.
- Worked alongside consultant Mariana Gatti throughout the project
- Curated and produced an event during New York Textiles Month in which we used the plants from their color-recipes in a natural dyes workshop, an installation, a playlist and a tasting menu. The last two were in charge, respectively, of Paris-based chef Andrea Sham and London-based music researcher Cher-ee-lee.
The Letter H
The Letter H is a womenswear brand based in Brooklyn. During 2017-2020 I worked with them in different sourcing, development, production and marketing capacities.
Development:
Developed and tested several color recipes using responsibly sourced plants.
Sourcing:
I advised which recipes to keep considering color stability, availability, impact of their extraction from nature on the environment, price-point and story-telling. This combination of angles is needed on natural dyes, due to the fact that sometimes the same color can be obtained from the same plant.
Production:
I handled the dyeing process.
For this specific project, we used the following plants: madder, indigo, quebracho rojo, annatto.
Each garment was dyed by hand in a process that lasted over 1-week and used between 10-30 gallons of water per garment (including pre-washing, dyeing and washing). We didn’t use alum or any mordant and developed instead recipes and processes that assured stable and long-standing color.
Marketing:
I advised the brand on how to best tell the story of the natural-dyeing process and the plants they utilized. A plant-oriented and transparent approach was utilized. Every color-way included the name of the plant that was used to make it, as well as a brief story of characteristics of the plant and its use as a dye. For this purpose, the brand worked, upon my recommendation, with writer and biologist Aina S. Erice to better communicate the history of the plants.
Film I Am
Set design for short film I Am by filmmaker Alejandro Moreno.
Backdrop was dyed using a variety of plants and ferrous sulfate in a week-long process that used around 40 gallons of water.
HBO
Providing consultancy to the set decorator at HBO’s show High Maintenance on the items needed for a character in the show that was a natural dyer. Objects from my studio were rented for this episode.
Inditex
In September 2019 I was invited by Inditex to their Headquarters in A Coruña (Spain) for a week to impart a series of workshops on natural dyes to over 120 of their employees from different departments.
Bonobos
In August 2018 I was invited to host the design team of Bonobos in my Brooklyn studio to impart a workshops on natural dyes.
Melissa Shoes
In 2018 I was invited by the team at Melissa Shoes to co-curate with them an event with artists based in New York that work with plants in unexpected ways.